Pump electronics and L'Edge welding questions
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- Pain Boater
- Posts: 83
- Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2013 3:56 am
Pump electronics and L'Edge welding questions
I still cannot get my Tsunami to run fast enough, having checked all wiring, polarity, etc., and with a new battery. The wiring from the switch to the pump my be slightly larger gauge than the pump wires. Could that be the problem? Any other ideas? Using a standard 4.5 amp lead acid battery buy my friend gets better results with a smaller battery and two pumps.
The welding question is this: I have a 3-inch closed crack under the seat end of the saddle. The last time it cracked the person who welded it told me not to bother glueing the seat back in but to just chock it side to side and front to back with mini cell blocks and keep the thwarts screwed down tight to the dowels in the saddle. Problem is there is about half inch or more of space between bottom of saddle and bottom of boat ….enough to flex and maybe cause this small crack. Should I bother padding it out with a thin layer of foam and re-glue it, or just put it back in as it was?
Thanks!
The welding question is this: I have a 3-inch closed crack under the seat end of the saddle. The last time it cracked the person who welded it told me not to bother glueing the seat back in but to just chock it side to side and front to back with mini cell blocks and keep the thwarts screwed down tight to the dowels in the saddle. Problem is there is about half inch or more of space between bottom of saddle and bottom of boat ….enough to flex and maybe cause this small crack. Should I bother padding it out with a thin layer of foam and re-glue it, or just put it back in as it was?
Thanks!
Re: Pump electronics and L'Edge welding questions
if wires are too thick you could loose power to the pump. I had the same issue with a lionel model train.
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- C Maven
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Re: Pump electronics and L'Edge welding questions
Here are some trouble shooting ideas.
Think wires should be fine. Too thin wire could be an issue and cause voltage loss.
Check all connections, tight and secure.
Check the battery voltage and compare to the pump requirements or specs. Low voltage could be the issue. Check for voltage loss at switch and at the pump.
Try your pump with a different battery.
Try your pump with your battery connected directly to rule out switch issues.
Try with different depths of water.
Try with no or a shorter or lower discharge hose.
Make sure the discharge is clear, not obstructed.
Think wires should be fine. Too thin wire could be an issue and cause voltage loss.
Check all connections, tight and secure.
Check the battery voltage and compare to the pump requirements or specs. Low voltage could be the issue. Check for voltage loss at switch and at the pump.
Try your pump with a different battery.
Try your pump with your battery connected directly to rule out switch issues.
Try with different depths of water.
Try with no or a shorter or lower discharge hose.
Make sure the discharge is clear, not obstructed.
Brian
http://www.JohnstonPursuits.ca" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.JohnstonPursuits.ca" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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- C Guru
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- Location: Virginia
Re: Pump electronics and L'Edge welding questions
You're using a 12 volt battery and not a 6 volt, right? (not being snide, they look similar.) Pump motor running slowly is either low voltage, or something tangled in the pump impeller. If you have a multimeter handy, check the voltage drop throughout the circuit. The pump should use all 12v.
Also, make sure you didn't get a 24volt pump by mistake, not common but they do exist.
Also, make sure you didn't get a 24volt pump by mistake, not common but they do exist.
Re: Pump electronics and L'Edge welding questions
This may sound silly but a buddy had his pump wired backwards. (battery positive to motor black wire) It did pump but was very slow.
Also is the interior of the discharge hose smooth or is it ribbed. (ribbed is slower)
Is the battery fully charged.
Hope this helps
Also is the interior of the discharge hose smooth or is it ribbed. (ribbed is slower)
Is the battery fully charged.
Hope this helps
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- Pain Boater
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- Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2013 3:56 am
Re: Pump electronics and L'Edge welding questions
Thanks to those of you who responded to the pump question. I am installing dual pumps with smooth clear outlet hoses and will see if that helps. I did not hear any thoughts on whether a small gap under the saddle could promote cracking so I put some foam shims under the thwarts to close the gap somewhat. Gotta make that L'Edge last now!
Re: Pump electronics and L'Edge welding questions
As to welding your ledge a wielded canoe will never be as strong as the original. The crack formed under your seat because that is the worst/ most stressed place it could be unfortunately.
It can be welded but don't trust it completely. I would not take it into a steep Canyon that I could not walk out of. Look at it this way, if the originalboat cracked is the weld going to be any better? Good luck and I hope it works for you.
It can be welded but don't trust it completely. I would not take it into a steep Canyon that I could not walk out of. Look at it this way, if the originalboat cracked is the weld going to be any better? Good luck and I hope it works for you.
- the great gonzo
- Paddling Benefactor
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Re: Pump electronics and L'Edge welding questions
A good weld should be as strong as the base material of the boat.
As far as whether ornot to shim a saddle in a boat, I think I would rather not. In my humble opinion it stiffens out the hull too much and may cause some stress raisers.
TGG!
As far as whether ornot to shim a saddle in a boat, I think I would rather not. In my humble opinion it stiffens out the hull too much and may cause some stress raisers.
TGG!
Everyone must believe in something. I believe I'll go canoeing - Henry David Thoreau
Re: Pump electronics and L'Edge welding questions
check your rotation if the pump is wired backwards it will still sling water just not as much if you had correct rotation