Another d-ring, saddle removal question

[taoslightning]

A few months ago I bought a used dagger impulse, while buying the boat, it was inevitable, I also bought its history. The boat's fine for paddling Class III, however, there are some corrections I'd like to make before really seeing what I can do in it. For instance - the saddle is not centered, it sits about two inches starboard. Is there any way to safely remove it without gouging the hull? In no way do I want to do this "mechanically". I'd like to replace the saddle entirely. It's a royalex boat and I'm wondering if a heat gun may loosen up the existing adhesive. Any ideas?

Also - I'd like to lower two d-rings I installed with vynabond not too long ago. Will a heat gun work there as well?

Thanks.

[beach]

I was able to re-position my pedestal by placing the canoe on a sun heated driveway and then used a stiff 3" putty knife to release it from the hull. The pedestal had been glued with Mondo Bondo or Hydrogrip, used the same for the reglue.

I would leave the d-rings alone and add what you want elsewhere. I am not aware of any way to safely remove the vinyl patch without damage.

I know of two Quebecois paddlers that style class V in Impulses...

Let us know

[pblanc]

Assuming that the "saddle" is a foam pedestal I would guess that it has been glued in with contact cement. If so, I would use a thin paint scraper or putty knife to get under the pedestal and carefully work it off. Make sure you are not getting under the inner vinyl coat of the Royalex as you do this. This usually leaves a thin layer of residual minicell and adhesive behind. Sometimes you can work this layer off using your thumb vigorously, more often you have to use some type of abrasive pad and/or solvent.

I have removed Vinyl D-ring patches glued in with Vynabond many times. Sometimes just leaving the boat out in the sun on a hot day will start to loosen the adhesive. Usually a heat gun is needed. Be careful not do melt the foam core of the boat. Warm up the edge of the patch. You may need to get under the very edge with a putty knife. Again, be careful not to get under the gray inner vinyl coat. Work slowly, warming the patch with the heat gun in the area next to come off and peeling the patch back at a very acute angle to reduce the chance of delaminating the Royalex vinyl coat. Watch to be sure you are not pulling off the gray layer as you go.

I have used MEK (methyl ethylketone) and a green kitchen scrubbing pad or cloth to remove the glue residue. Be careful with the MEK and don't let it pool in the hull. It will dissolve vinyl. Depending on how clean you want the boat, you may need to resort to some 80 to 100 grit sandpaper to get rid of all the glue residue.

I am sure there are other methods, but I have reoutfitted quite a few boats in this way with no appreciable damage to the Royalex.

[noobopenboater]

I re-outfitted my impulse and used the 3" putty knife to slowly get under the pedestal and work it loose. It left some foam residue from the pedistal like mentioned above but it came off easily. I wasnt as lucky trying to remove the hard plastic old toe blocks and got into the hull a little so be carefull.

[ncdavid]

How about cutting an inch off of the right side of the saddle and adding an inch to the left? Wouldn't be pretty. Would be easy.

[boathead]

I have removed many minicell pedestals using the putty knife method. Actually i have a long older styled bread knife. the knife has no serations on either edge of blade and has developed a permanent angle <about> from much use. the angle along with the 12 " length works great every time. You need to use much more care and patience working with the D'ring vinyl patches. Usually a hair dryer, putty knife and again patience, much patience. I have found that an aerosal can of "Oops" works very well for every thing from magic marker lines to Hydro-grip and mondo bond as well as vynabond residuals..................Good Luck....The Boathead................

[Jim P]

Leave them in - why mess with damaging the hull? On two boats I have just taken a razor knife and carefully cut the webbing part loose, pulled the threads out and if any parts were loose cut them off of the hull. Then attached new rings on top of the old either directly over or in the case where I needed a different contact point with some overlap.

Both cases lasted for years and I can tell you I tend to keep my straps tight all the time. Never had a failure at the dring. Broke more than a couple of plastic buckles though. Sure its not as pretty as it might be but its not a show boat its for paddling.