C-Forum

If it is just grime, Mr Clean Magic Eraser and some elbow grease will do the job. I have also had success with 409 Citrus Cleaner for stubborn grime...

If it is old glue, you may be stuck using a solvent... Probably less risk than a heat gun - especially with old royalex...

Paddle Power wrote:Try canoeing.com

http://www.shopcanoeing.com/collections ... dles-store" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Last time I purchased from them, the order had to be built by Mitchell and drop shipped to me. Just make sure that they have them in stock and not just special order.

As for the cockpit rims – yep – fragile as all get out! I’ve welded a few and replaced a couple of them. If they break I’d go with fab’ing up a glass rim and bolt it in as a replacement. I'll second the glass rim. Easy to make, easy to repair. If I remember correctly, the outfitting and center wall...

The Duet certainly didn't handle like a good slalom C2, but it certainly handled better than a berrigan end-hole C2 :-) It was pretty stable, and was very solid for taking an inexperienced paddler down the river. It really came down to how well you outfitted your boat - the stock outfitting was pret...

I'll second a Millbrook boat - they will take a pretty good beating (not like plastic) but will definitely save a lot of weight, and I'm sure Kaz will be able to suggest the right layup to balance weight/strength...

Whitewater Distress was what we used to call that particular outfitter... For good reason... Their guide training program was a bit short on the training side... Just sayin...

I only paddled one a few times in Citizen's races - my regular boat those days was a batmax - so the slasher was a heavy plastic pig that had edges good enough to flip you, but not really responsive like a real slalom boat.

Band saw is definitely the cleanest way to go if you have access. If not a hacksaw blade is not bad... Just rough out the line, then sand - shurform or dragon skin are preferred...

Never paddled it tandem, but it was a dry, fast solo boat in moderately big water... Certainly more responsive than the OCA I was used to paddling. I thought it was a step up from the sunburst as a plastic class slalom boat...

I learned to roll in a sage - or more correctly I got my first roll in a sage - it was easier to roll than the 80 cm Hahn that I also had access to... It wasn't bad compared to the 17' grumman with a lake keel that I also had access to... I never made it on the river with the sage, because I bought ...

5 seconds added for the touch on the gate after you left the surf

Looking good though.

Believe it or not, the current crop of slalom boats are pretty good size wise - I started paddling my Vajda Scream XXL at 210 - it is rated at 187 lbs, but does just fine with a larger paddler- it has a much larger bow than many of the older boats. I have an old Zealot that "feels" smaller even thou...

A coat of wax a couple of times a year certainly won't hurt - especially if it will be stored outside. Oiling the gunnels is also a good preventative measure.

Stay off the rocks and it will last you a long time.

Back when bullet head type helmets were the rage for racing, I made a 1 piece mold, and the first few helmets were quite a fight to release. I drilled a small hole (where one of the strap anchors would go) and used compressed air to release the new part. I will note that I ALWAYS used PVA just to gi...

Having used many of the possible methods available for building a plug and the subsequent mold, I'd say that for a canoe, you would want to use a strip build method. That way you could have a "fairly" accurate, fairly light prototype that you could paddle and tweak. Build a strongback, line up your ...