C-Forum

Are you letting each thin layer dry a few days before application of the next? The acetone needs time to dry out and it will migrate through hull as it does so. It skins over quick but takes some time to fully cure out. If you are having weather like we are - rain 5 days a week the higher humidity might be slowing things down.

The key is thin layers, and give ample time to dry. Sure its a pain, but most of use seem to have more than one boat. Break out yer back up boat. Put on a coat saturday, come back next saturday slap on another, repeat. Support the inside of the hull during the process to prevent buckling.

My, my, ain't this topic popular?

I'm liking the idea of adding some fiberglass. I found some suppliers online but don't feel like waiting. Where the heck might I buy some locally? Store categories?

Ken

Jim, I must've been more patient the first time. I did get a bit of buckling, and wish I'd supported it inside first (probably by fiberglassing, since I'll probably do that now anyway), but now am just turning the boat upside-right. Weather's been good and initially I tried to put a thin layer on each day, but it ended up being squishy, so I panicked and cut it all off again. Started again and wish it would cure faster, but it does seem to harden eventually.

I strategically started when I've got 2 weekends that I can't paddle, and in the meantime I could C-1 or tandem.

bambam, you should be able to get fiberglassing supplies at any hardware store or marine store, it's not hard to find.

PY.

Patience is one key with this, give it plenty of time between coats.

I provided interior hull support for my project by cobbling together a bunch of cardboard boxes, plywood and minicell scraps and stuff. Than using c-clamps and some 2x6's clamped to the gunnels to press and hold it all up into the hull. It did make it difficult to move the boat indoors for extended drying but it prevented things from buckling for the most part (my supports were not 100% so a had a couple of small indentations).

I wish I was canoeing more to get the fix more testing, but the legs won't cooperate. Mostly it gets out when I loan it out.

So, I thought the slurry had cured. In fact, it seemed rock hard; I've had it on the river bumping rocks, no problems.

However, I noticed that if it's left in the sunshine on a warm day, that it goes back to being puffy and squishes.

Is this just the way it cures - will a bit of heat always soften it so much? I didn't notice that on my earlier repair. Or is it an indication that something isn't right?

Presumably it's not right and not good - if the slurry goes mushy, I don't imagine it's doing much for the surrounding parts of my hull. At least I glassed the inside, so it should have the suport not to sag in.

Anyone else had similar experience with the slurry & heat?
Thoughts? Advice?

Cheers, Pat.

Had the same problem. Repaired areas got soft every time they sat in the sun. Firmed up when they cooled. Patience, patience, patience. Those same areas are now at least as solid as the rest of the boat.

As someone mentioned earlier, G/Flex is another option. I use it (with the silica filler) to fill gouges and protect from UV (no paint required with the silica added) and it bonds VERY well to both outer layers of royalex.

I intentionally left my last "fill" higher than the rest of the hull surface to see how it held up against abrasion. 5-6 river trips later and it looks the same. I figured it would be worn flush or it would even get pulled off. Based on that I think it would do well for skid plates and it wouldn't dig in like regular epoxy.

It also bonds very well to wood, btw. And, its relatively flexible! The instructions even cover repairs of royalex. You might try that as a filler at least, but you might also mix in some glass fibers and see how it does.

As stated, the only drawback is it is ex-peeyun-sive.

--Ray

Has anyone tried PermaPoxy plastic weld? Seems relatively inexpensive.