Best methods to outfit an OC-1 for big water??

Ryan Viser · Post by **Ryan Viser** » Sun May 30, 2010 3:44 pm

I feel like I really need some advice from all you guys out there that have been doing this a while. I've been paddling pretty aggressively since I started open boating several years back and just this past week came out East and got to hit the Cheoah (1000 cfs) for the first time and Section 4 of the Chattooga for the first time as well. I'll just jump right in to the reason for my post. There were times when I had some serious trouble making the moves I had to make because my boat was full of water. Yes I have a pump system (2 1100's and a 500, haha) but it doesn't pump out as fast as it comes in. In addition, my float bags are not tied down securely enough to keep water from just having its way w. them and washing up underneath em. Basically, I'm thinking I need to reoutfit my boat if I'm going to run water like that otherwise it's gonna be really difficult. My initial idea was that having an all foam bulkhead would really help displace water. I'm also wondering if I could build foam walls, on the front and back ends of the bulkhead that the airbags would back up to, then use something like neoprene to stretch and seal into the foam walls so that no water can get in the spaces where the airbags are. This would leave it to where the only place water could get in would be in my lap and that would pump out pretty quickly. Also, I guess maybe I should consider the idea of a boat that is a bit more of a "dry ride". Right now I paddle a Mohawk Viper 11, which I absolutely LOVE, but it seems to be a pretty wet design. Anyways, look forward to hearing thoughts and if the general consensus is "You need to man up and learn how to paddle w. all that water" then I guess I can do that to

Thanks!!

Ryan

Bob P · Post by **Bob P** » Sun May 30, 2010 4:07 pm

You mostly answered your own question...

Keep your bags fully inflated.
Tie them down really securely so they can't float on the water in the boat (and have the bags extend all the way to the ends of the hull).

Once you can isolate the water in the center of the boat, there's lots less mass in the ends to push around, and your pumps will work better.

If that doesn't work, paddle a C1.

TheKrikkitWars · Post by **TheKrikkitWars** » Sun May 30, 2010 4:35 pm

If you're getting water under your airbags, they're underinflated or too small.

If your bags are able to move upwards, then you need to relace the boat and possibly get 2 straps running from the bow&stern to d-rings at the front and back of your saddle.

Simple.

2opnboat1 · Post by **2opnboat1** » Sun May 30, 2010 5:03 pm

I have boated the Viper 11 alot, very good boat not the driest but not the wettest. One thing that has to be worked on in the 11 is the angle of attack. It is better to hit waves with a slight angle, and roll with the wave trains. just My .02

Ryan Viser · Post by **Ryan Viser** » Sun May 30, 2010 5:22 pm

Thanks for all the help fellas. I know that float bags are made of different materials (Nylon, Vinyl, etc) are any of those materials more resistant to deflating when the cold water hits them?

TheKrikkitWars · Post by **TheKrikkitWars** » Sun May 30, 2010 5:39 pm

Ryan Viser wrote:Thanks for all the help fellas. I know that float bags are made of different materials (Nylon, Vinyl, etc) are any of those materials more resistant to deflating when the cold water hits them?

Nope, air is air is air.

I tend to plan for it and take a deliberate roll on the flat at the start, then jump out on the side, dump the last inch or so of water and re-inflate the bags.

FullGnarlzOC · Post by **FullGnarlzOC** » Sun May 30, 2010 10:09 pm

As said before... Relace(real tight), get straps that run vertical down the middle of the bags. This will keep the water in the center of the boat, and it does make a huge difference.

Also - The better lines you run, and the better you get at deflecting incoming water, the less water you get, the dryer the boat will be. If you ever hit a wave head on...you get a crap load of water. Instead hit it at a slight angle, and bring up the side of the boat that's hitting the wave, with your knees and hips... this will deflect the water out of the boat. By watching angle, and deflecting - you should be able to keep alot of water out. Other than that...Like i said, find the dry lines. Sometimes there aren't dry lines, but you can get creative with using certain water features.

Another thing - It helps to get comfortable paddling the boat with a lot of water in it. About 3inchs of water from bag to bag, is about right. Once I got use to the added water, it doesn't bug me that much, unless it's completely full. And still...I'm way better at paddling a full boat than when I didnt practice. It's nice because I can flip on purpose on the beginning of rapids, just to practice a c-boat roll, and still have the skill/comfortability to paddle it full.

Keep tweakin' and keep learnin.

eubie · Post by **eubie** » Tue Jun 01, 2010 2:54 pm

Ryan: lurking here, huh?
You can get 6' bags from Mohawk that should go from your toes to your knees. That's what i have in my Prophet ( a dry boat: Dale B paddles one!).
I also have lacing on top as well as multiple straps down the bags tied into D rings.
You do realize your problem is why folks go to a C1 or a 'yak?
"Find the dry line" ! that's the other solution.

gumpy · Post by **gumpy** » Tue Jun 01, 2010 4:42 pm

you can also make your own dry line. block waves, use a boof to get over holes etc. you'd be surprised at how dry a good open boater can run big water

Craig Smerda · Post by **Craig Smerda** » Tue Jun 01, 2010 4:47 pm

displacement http://kayakoutfitting.com/tips/wwcanoe/index.html

or a "pump"

funkidreadz · Post by **funkidreadz** » Wed Jun 02, 2010 7:24 pm

2nd run double fun!
if you wanna be never full then try nevafull
paddle hard stay safe
James

philcanoe · Post by **philcanoe** » Thu Jun 03, 2010 2:18 am

next thing to try... just need to get those last two cracks welded first.

kimmieOC1 · Post by **kimmieOC1** » Fri Jun 04, 2010 3:08 am

Phil are you saying you're going to drill holes in your boat like funkidreadz?

philcanoe · Post by **philcanoe** » Sat Jun 05, 2010 1:11 am

Yes, ma'am... most definitely!

...had seen this work before, was just wondered the best way. I'd say James has got it all figured out. He's my same weight, with same boat, and he offered the measurements for everyone (what luck). Just need my plastic welding friend to recover a bit from shoulder surgery. Have already dismantled my Fly, and just waiting on him.

Figure (hoping) it should be better than a pump, and be just the ticket for out-west box canyons.

kimmieOC1 · Post by **kimmieOC1** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 2:50 am

Let me know how it goes. Makes sense to me. But I'm afraid of drilling holes in a boat I paid that mucho dinero for.

If you say it works though I'd trust it. And I'd like to see pictures - or better yet in person - of the finished product. Sure would make taking the dry line less tempting.