I'm trying to bring a 20-year old Millbrook Hooter back to life. It progresses, but slowly....
The resin has enough surface oxidation that I'm planning to scrub and apply System 3 Clear Coat to the inside. I've removed the minicell. Now, does anyone have any good ideas for removing 20-year old adhesive? Soaking with soapy water helps some, but I'm open to better ideas, and can someone recommend a better tool than a fingernail?
There are also two minor cracks in the fiberglass at the chines and also a longitudinal crack in the Kevlar in the center of the bilge. I've applied thin patches over the fiberglass and I'm planning to put Kevlar over the interior breaks. Any advice on fabric weight?
Removing OLD adhesive on vinylester hull
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Re: Removing OLD adhesive on vinylester hull
The cracks in the chines, are those exterior? If so, 5 oz Kevlar is OK, or glass. If the cracks are inside, they may be due to Kevlar being kinda low in compression strength. When the chines are compressed by a big blow to the bottom of the boat, the Kevlar may fail. Use S-glass to fix such spots, or carbon/Kevlar mix, or pure carbon.
Inside center damage was probably caused by the bottom pooching up and exceeding the tension limit of Kevlar. Five ounce Kevlar is good for that repair.
On the "adhesive" I think acetone won't attack vinylester the way it does epoxy. You could ask Kaz, he's been very responsive to my questions.
Hard to believe the Hooter and the late Kyote go back that far. How time flies.
Inside center damage was probably caused by the bottom pooching up and exceeding the tension limit of Kevlar. Five ounce Kevlar is good for that repair.
On the "adhesive" I think acetone won't attack vinylester the way it does epoxy. You could ask Kaz, he's been very responsive to my questions.
Hard to believe the Hooter and the late Kyote go back that far. How time flies.
Re: Removing OLD adhesive on vinylester hull
What type of adhesive are you referring to?
Assuming that you are talking about adhesive residue left from minicell foam removal and that it is contact adhesive, I have found that mineral spirits or paint thinner usually works but the solvent may need to remain in contact with the glue residue for some time and that you may need to mildly and repeatedly abrade the glue residue to allow the solvent to penetrate. I usually use a mild abrasive pad like a Scotch Brite pad. Putting the boat out in the sun or carefully heating the residue with a heat gun also seems to help loosen the adhesive.
I use 5 oz./sq.yd. aramid cloth to repair interior Kevlar damage. If the fibers look to be completely disrupted I would apply a 2 layer concentric patch with one patch bias cut. I use peel ply or some mold release cloth for aramid patches to get a nice, clean edge.
Although Dave Curtis of Hemlock Canoe, and other builders are using the aramid/carbon hybrid cloth, Charlie Wilson claims it is prone to zipper tears. The aramid fibers have some stretch, the carbon fibers do not, and the sharp edge of the carbon fibers tend to cut the aramid over time (per CEW).
Assuming that you are talking about adhesive residue left from minicell foam removal and that it is contact adhesive, I have found that mineral spirits or paint thinner usually works but the solvent may need to remain in contact with the glue residue for some time and that you may need to mildly and repeatedly abrade the glue residue to allow the solvent to penetrate. I usually use a mild abrasive pad like a Scotch Brite pad. Putting the boat out in the sun or carefully heating the residue with a heat gun also seems to help loosen the adhesive.
I use 5 oz./sq.yd. aramid cloth to repair interior Kevlar damage. If the fibers look to be completely disrupted I would apply a 2 layer concentric patch with one patch bias cut. I use peel ply or some mold release cloth for aramid patches to get a nice, clean edge.
Although Dave Curtis of Hemlock Canoe, and other builders are using the aramid/carbon hybrid cloth, Charlie Wilson claims it is prone to zipper tears. The aramid fibers have some stretch, the carbon fibers do not, and the sharp edge of the carbon fibers tend to cut the aramid over time (per CEW).
Re: Removing OLD adhesive on vinylester hull
Thanks y'all. I'm not sure what type of adhesive was used. Everything looks original, so it might be a good idea to get in touch with Kaz. The glue has softened in water but it doesn't want to come off. The fabric is intact in these areas, so I'm tempted to just remove what I can and then just dry it and let it soak up the clearcoat.
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Jim Michaud
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Re: Removing OLD adhesive on vinylester hull
Try Toluene. It's by far the best solvent for removing contact cement, especially on vinyl. It doesn't destroy vinyl or ABS anywhere as fast as acetone or MEK. It even dissolves contact cement much faster than the other two.
By the way, I'm pretty sure that Cotol is nothing more than toluene so you can use toluene to thin Aquaseal and save yourself some money.
By the way, I'm pretty sure that Cotol is nothing more than toluene so you can use toluene to thin Aquaseal and save yourself some money.
Re: Removing OLD adhesive on vinylester hull
Tolulene is likely the solvent if it was a contact type cement... You can get it at the hardware store - It is nasty. Make sure to use in a very well ventilated area, preferably with a respirator.
Heat gun would probably be your best method - but you need to be careful controlling the heat. Work a small area, heat the next area and move on...Take your time DO NOT OVERHEAT
Heat gun would probably be your best method - but you need to be careful controlling the heat. Work a small area, heat the next area and move on...Take your time DO NOT OVERHEAT