C-Forum

The laws of physics state a red boat is faster if it is moving away from the observer...a blue boat is faster if it is moving towards the observer. The ideal race boat will be blue in the front, red in the back.

I've got a Quake, which is 10" longer than the SF, and I put 36" bags in it...works really well. I personally think 48" would be way too much bag for that short of a boat. I picked up a pair of Gaia bags about 2 months ago from waldensridgewhitewater.com

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KOKATAT-GORE-TEX-Mens-DRY-SUIT-FRONT-ENTRY-w-RELIEF-ZIP-SOCKS-NWT-S-899-/190856959781#vi-content" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; I got mine a few years ago from http://www.columbussupply.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; - they don't have the G...

This is good stuff - thanks everybody. Any idea roughly how much McMaster-Carr charges for shipping? Its asking me for my credit card info before telling me that...since I'll be shipping to Canada, I want to make sure I'm not paying $20 shipipng for $2 worth of plastic rod... I think I paid about $...

Shep wrote:

Todhunter wrote:Vertical - one on the front of the saddle, under the front thwart, and one on the back of the saddle, under the rear thwart.

And he means dowel not tubing. solid material so you can screw into it.

Yep, here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#8624k16" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

For protection, a full-face. Ask me how I know. :cry: I'm using the Shred-Ready standard full-face for creeking, and I will echo Jeff by saying it is tight getting over the ears (and especially for me since I wear glasses), but once it's on, it's comfy and seems to have lots of coverage to protect m...

Go to a home depot and buy a boring bit a little smaller than the dowel you plan to use. I have a 7/8" bit I use for 1" dowels. Drill as deep as you can into the saddle, press the dowel in, drill through the thwart and through the dowel, and bolt the two together. Does the dowel go through the sadd...

Go to a home depot and buy a boring bit a little smaller than the dowel you plan to use. I have a 7/8" bit I use for 1" dowels. Drill as deep as you can into the saddle, press the dowel in, drill through the thwart and through the dowel, and bolt the two together.

If you do a dowel, use plastic...the wood will rot quickly, as it cannot dry when it is stuffed down in the foam. Ask me how I know. You can buy 1" HDPE bar stock from places like McMaster-Carr...that's what I did.

Kayaks looked scary and/or boring to me before I started paddling. I didn't know C1 existed back then either. The first time I saw an open boat on the Ocoee from a raft, I knew I had to have one. I've been paddling one ever since. I do have a C1 that I take out a few times a year, but it is uncomfor...

I am by no means a C1 expert, but I have a Jefe Grande C1 and I really like it. Haven't paddled any other C1's, so I can't compare, but I am 5'10", 140 lbs, and it's treated me pretty good so far. I open boat about 95% of the time, but do pull out the C1 every now and again.

Does Maxwell paddle anywhere, anymore? I'd like to see a picture of the paddle he made. So, the Maxim. My 2nd WW boat, I started paddling it for my 4th time on white water. Sharp chines plus total lack of initial stability ensured a steep learning curve for a beginner - I swam everything, and I mean...

I pulled my L'Edge in about an inch. Flattens out some of the rocker, makes it a tad faster, and you give up a little bit of initial stability, but it is quicker edge-to-edge.

Agreed - acetone should be used sparingly. Heat the patch gently with a heat gun, then grab the edge with pliers and gently pull, while having someone pour a small amount of acetone between the patch and boat. All the acetone should boil off from the heat, or you are using too much acetone. It usual...

If they used weldwood, gentle heat application and acetone will do it. Just don't get too frisky or you'll pull off the inner vinyl layer.